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  1. Madagascar or The Idiot’s Guide To Getting Bit By A Lemur

    November 19, 2013 by Ford

    Madagascar is a huge island off the eastern coast of Africa and is probably pissed it doesn’t count as it’s own continent like Australia. Thanks to its remote location and the fact that westerners haven’t’ found anything they need to steal from Madagascar quite yet, it is even now in 2013 quite untouched by foreigners.

    The capital of Madagascar is Antananarivo or just Tana and it is not easy to get to. Easiest way I found, other than air Madagascar, was to fly through the nearby island of Mauritius on Air Mauritius or from Nairobi on Kenya Air.

    Exotic Madagascar Park is kind of like a zoo but for local animals. The lemurs roam free but can be coaxed
    Also , we had lunch here and found that they make a surprisingly good steak so we recommend it.

    Next stop

    Feon’ny Ala is the craphole we stayed at while visiting Andasibe.
    Vakona (the name of a giant eucalyptus like plant that grows all over the forest) lodge is the top local lodging option but it books up early so plan ahead. On the grounds is Lemur Island which is a must visit. Seeing the lemurs from a distance, in the trees in their natural habitat is really cool. Having

    Night walk
    There are many beautiful things to see and do but unfortunately we only had five days on the island which left us with limited options. The roads are terrible and the traffic is worse so getting just about anywhere takes about 4 times longer than you would expect just by looking at google maps.

    Mantadia national park.

    Nestor

    Ampefy Geiser Kavita hotel
    We spent far too little time in Madagascar and when we inevitably return we look forward to the following:
    Rafting down the river with Remote Rivers
    Explore the west coast, the main city M… stingy forest and baobab avenue
    Explore the north of the island, go whale watching and visit noisy be


  2. Rosanjin: Fancy, Classy, [could be] Tasty[er] Sushi

    November 16, 2013 by Arthur

    New York’s one Michelin star sushi (Kyoto style Kaiseki to be exact) classic Rosanjin is fairly tasty but far from impressive. The food is decent. It definitely lacks the creativity and even quality of some of its Michelin started sushi brethren like Soto. The restaurant’s decor, exceptional service, perfect presentation and amazing Sake and Umeshu pairing make up for anything it lacks in food quality and definitely carry it to the one star rating. The restaurant probably shouldn’t hold its breath for that second star though.

    Looks like an awesome date place though.


  3. Tiny Fork

    November 16, 2013 by Arthur

    Not impressed by any of the food.
    Nice vibe.
    Pretty good oysters.
    Worth it for drinks and $1 oysters during happy hour. That’s about it.


  4. ME Hotel London – Nice but not all about me

    November 13, 2013 by Arthur

    ME Hotel London on Aldwych in the west end has an excellent location whether you’re in town on a leisurely visit or there for business. The area itself seems a little touristy given that you have theaters with glitzy musical signage all around you but this is London, not New York, so in all reality the place is still very quiet in the evenings and on a Sunday night is downright dead.

    The hotel is just a few months old and is situated in a post modern building which, my cabbie claimed, formerly housed the BBC. The decor inside is kitschy-splashy-modern but stylishly done. The rooms are tastefully designed and appointed. It looks nice. I chose it based on the pictures and I was not disappointed. The staff is fairly friendly, especially by London standards.

    The hotel sports an Italian restaurant, STK (of New York’s Meatpacking district fame) and an upstairs rooftop bar with a killer view of the Thames and the city skyline. Between STK and the rooftop bar, the place can get quite popping on the right night. That being said, unlike its New York counterpart, STK can’t make a short rib worth a shit. The menu said “72-hour Braised Short Rib.” Generally I assume that means that the short rib has been braised for 72 hours but in all honestly I didn’t ask for clarification, so the fault must be mine. Maybe they just mean its 72 hours since it was cooked. Any short rib worth a damn (especially one cooked for that long or  even for a tenth of that time) should fall off the bone and never really require a knife for anything but the image of civility. To my great dismay I had to be far less than civil with the piece of subpar brisket that was served to me for my $32.

    Ok. So whats the issue with the hotel? The issue is that people don’t really think or don’t really care. The ME is considered a 5-star hotel. Despite the great decor, location, etc. I wouldn’t give it more than 4. A 5-star hotel must adhere to a completely different level of service. It must rise to a standard of excellence in service where every last detail has been thought through and taken care of.

    I drop and give myself 50 in the morning. Somewhere on pushup number 3 I notice the scent emanating from the room’s carpet. For god’s sake people, the hotel has only been open for a couple of months. There is no excuse to say its absorbed years and years of wear, tare and bodily fluids. Washed the damn carpets.

    I’m not a body wash sort of guy. I take the little hand soap they give you and use it in the shower. It disappears pretty fast. No worries, I’m sure housekeeping will get a chance to do the room before I get back in the evening. Evening: No Soap. Next Evening: No soap. Next Evening: I call, “Please bring me some soap.” If soap was part of the accessories provided with the room, there is no reason I should ever be missing a bar of soap from my room. But hey, everyone makes mistakes. In all honesty even my favorite 5-star hotels (the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur) can get things wrong or miss something. Its all about consistency, thoughtfulness and how the issue is remedied.

    I buy some Gu chocolate pudding on the way home. I love that stuff and you can’t get it anywhere else. I grab a spoon and a saucer from one of the two teacup sets in the room. I eat the Gu, leave the dirty spoon and saucer on the table and head out in the morning. When I come back in the evening, the room is clean, the dirty spoon and saucer are gone. But now I have just one spoon and saucer left. I proceed to use the second and last spoon and saucer with my second cup of Gu, slightly worried as to what will happen the following day. Surprisingly they replace the spoon and saucer but even more surprisingly they only replace one. So now on my cupboard stands one cup on a saucer with a spoon on it and one lonely cup, wondering what the hell happened to its little friends and why its neighbor got its spoon and saucer back but it didn’t and what wrong with it, how is it worse than the other guy, doesn’t it deserve a saucer and spoon… A cup can easily develop an inferiority complex like that. Frankly, so can a person. What if I had someone up to my room and I had to serve tea? Go saucer-less? Really?

    You won’t be surprised to know that my shower cap (yes I used the shower cap – long hair) was not replaced either and being in a hurry the following morning with no time to wait for them to bring in another, I had to contort myself to all sorts of back-wrenching angles to keep my hair from getting wet in the room’s beautiful (but limiting from a direction of water flow standpoint) rain shower.

    And now here is the clincher. I send out some shirts to be laundered. They are supposed to be done the following morning. The morning comes and as I enjoy the tranquility of sleeping in late on a Saturday morning in an attempt to catch up on sleep after my flight and dream away the jet lag… the phone starts ringing its head off not 12 inches from mine. “Sir, this is Stephane from downstairs. One of our guys is in front of your room with your shirts. There is a Do Not Disturb sign on your door and he didn’t want to knock.” Really? Are you fucking kidding me? The kid who runs around with the shirts was bright enough to figure out that the big red Do Not Disturb sign probably meant I didn’t want to be disturbed with a knock but you…. you whom they put in front of a desk, don’t have the brains to figure out that calling me inside my room might just qualify as Disturbing? “Huh? What? Oh yes. Just a second.” I say, as I reluctantly rise from the bed so I might go out of my way to offer the highest quality of service to the young man holding shirts outside my hotel room door and not keep him waiting. I know this a wild idea, but maybe, just maybe, a note slipped under my door would have sufficed. Maybe something along the lines of: “Sir, We sincerely hope you are enjoying your Saturday morning. Your shirts are clean, pressed and ready. As you did not wish to be disturbed, they are being held for you downstairs. Should you wish to pick them up yourself, you may do so at reception, otherwise please ring XXXX at any time and we would be happy to have them brought up to your room right away. –Regards, Stephanie” Or even “Shirts ready. Call XXXX.”

    None of these things are horrible. The hotel is fine. While they are new, you can get occasional discounts. Thus I would recommend it to a friend and stay there again. But lets not lie to our customers and ourselves and call it a 5-star hotel. If the prices were higher, I’d say you can get better “5-star” service elsewhere, even in London.


  5. A hunter and fisherman walk into a bar…

    October 26, 2013 by Arthur

    Fish and Game in Hudson, NY sports beautiful unpretentious decor, good friendly service, and exemplary smelling liquid soap in the bathrooms. Despite all the talk and attempts at creativity, the fish, the game and even the greens were generally underwhelming and unimpressive. The duck was the best dish and the only one that stood out. The wine pairing, though once again very “creative” was once again quite underwhelming.

    Verdict: not worth the 2 hour drive up from New York City.


  6. No Michelin Star for You

    October 3, 2013 by Arthur

    Late night snack at Neta. Underwhelming and poor value for the money. Lack of consistency between visits. No Michelin Star for you.


  7. Some fun stuff in Krabi, Thailand

    August 19, 2013 by Arthur

    When in Krabi spend a day or two at Railey beach. It’s a peninsula but cut off from the mainland by steep cliffs so the only way in is by boat. Accommodations range from hostels to 5 stars. It has one walking street, no cars, amazing beaches, awesome rock climbing (for beginners and experts), good food, great kayaking, an awesome vibe and its just amazingly beautiful.

    The Namtok Ron Khlong Thom hot spring waterfalls are also worth the trip. It’s like god’s jacuzzi. Steaming hot water coming out at body piercing pressure into smooth tubs made entirely by nature through centuries of water erosion.


  8. Nepal

    June 24, 2013 by Ford

    Great hotel in Kathmandu: an oasis in the midst of madness

    http://www.shambaling.com/index.php/rooms-and-suites/standard-room

    Green line is the most legit bus company

    Very helpful blog from the Peanutbutter Nomads


  9. Austin

    May 25, 2013 by Ford

    In Austin, 6th street is the epicenter of party. It’s grimy and loud and obnoxious, teeming with college students and weekend tourists. The music is live and the drinks are cheap
    Shakespeare and Blind Pig have live music alternating with DJs playing pop songs (from the last three decades) and both have large outdoor patios for dancing late into the warm Austin night. Though not too late, most places close down at 2am which is a great time to hit up the food trucks that line 6th street. The German sausage spot on the way back to our hotel was our fave.

    In the midst of all the 6th street madness is a very NYC style speakeasy called Midnight cowboy. There is no sign on the door and best to have reservations if you are going on a popular night. The drinks are creative and the atmosphere more intimate. Great place to unwind.

    Rainey St is fantastic for a more laid back evening outing. Many of the houses on Rainey Street have been converted to bars and the huge backyards to lovely beer gardens. Many offer live music and dancing and some have food trucks inside the beer gardens serving tacos, ribs and fried chicken.
    My fave spot on Rainey St. was Blackheart. They had an amazing live band and a group of people from a local Lindy hop class were practicing their moves. The company is called 4 on the floor and its run by Matt jones if u want to take some dance classes while in Austin.

    As far as shopping, SoCo (South Congress) is the spot. My personal face there was the Kendra Scott store. She doesn’t have outlets on the east coast so what you get there will look unique when you come back home.

    For the foodies, Barley Swine is heavenly. It’s a tiny chef collaboration spot. Amazing flavored well worth the wait. For BBQ, those willing to stand in line should head to Franklin’s. For sushi and Asian fusion Uchi is the winner. Get there early for happy hour discounts.

    For the outdoorsy, Barton springs is a good place to hang out. There are many good hiking, walking and running trails around so if this is something you like, Austin will make you happy.


  10. Dubai & Abu Dhabi

    May 23, 2013 by Ford

    The UAE is a lovely and unique place to spend a few days. I was not at first excited about Dubai since I expected it to be an artificial play land like Vegas and came primarily to visit a friend but once there I changed my mind entirely.
    Dubai is the only place in the world which is new and shiny on such a spectacular scale and everyone should experience it for themselves.

    Below is the total brain dump of all we would recommend you do and see when you come to visit. Will try to add some pics once we sort through them.

    The beach
    When in Dubai you should spend at least one a day on the beach. You can get a room at one of the many gulf-side resorts but they will be pricey. The great thing about Dubai is that almost every hotel lets you spend time on their loungers/by their beach/pool for a fee and this way you can sample multiple beaches and see many hotels without paying extra on days you don’t use the facilities.

    The beach club place I loved the most was Nassimi Beach near the Atlantis hotel on the Palm. It has a lovely all white Ibiza feel, the food is fantastic and the DJ was great. I have also heard good things about Riva beach club. Do some research on the matter to find the latest and greatest when you go.

    This leads me to one thing I noted: there are plenty of affordable hotel options in Dubai so you shouldn’t think of it as $1000/night place (though there are plenty of those). They won’t be beachside, or with spectacular views but since you will spend little time there and since you have to pay to get in most place, it won’t really matter. Don’t fret too much time about location because you have to take a car everywhere in Dubai anyway and since most places are new, whatever you get will likely be nice and spacious.

    On the subject of budget options,
    Jumeirah 1 beach is free, clean and pretty and has towels, loungers and umbrellas for rent at reasonable prices. We got there late towards the evening but I suspect that during the day there are plenty of food vendors around as well. It’s a great way to spend a beach day on the cheap.

    http://m.departures-international.com/nc/sections/post/top-five-dubai-beach-bars.html

    Burj Khalifa
    I absolutely fell in love with this beautiful elegant enormous building, also known as the Burj Dubai. You can’t just stroll in to check it out though. To get inside you need to either have a booking to get to the observation deck or have reservations at the Armani hotel or one of the restaurants. Or, of course be a resident but that’s a little harder:) we decided that since we’re paying goos money we might as well get fed and booked afternoon tea and the At.mosphere restaurant on the 122nd floor. The food was ok and the views spectacular. If you make the same choice, ask for a table by the glass and with a view of the gulf where you can see “The World.”
    You can and should also admire the Burj Dubai from afar. There is a beautiful fountain show every night and you can enjoy a great view of it and the magnificent tower from Zeta restaurant across the pond.

    Burj Arab
    Much as with the other Burj. you cant just walk into the sail. Go for Afternoon tea or lunch or see if from afar from the 360 bar that’s on the water.

    Night life
    Other great seaside spots to wind down are Jetty Lounge at the one and only royal mirage and Bliss lounge at Sheraton Jumeirah.

    The Mall
    You can easily spend a whole day the the Dubai mall. Other than every conceivable western chain clothing and shoe store (including a giant Bloomingdales) there are also dozens of restaurants, an ice skating rink, a huge aquarium (that you can dive in!) which at the time of our visit was home to over 80 sharks, a movie theater, sega republic indoor theme park and an Arabian indoor souk. The mall is huge and it’s easy to get lost so take your time, wander and enjoy.

    The Marina
    The marina is the large expat neighborhood with beautiful modern towers. Check out the Walk at JBR which has a Miami vibe. Great place for people watching and the insane diversity that is Dubai.

    Caramel and Financial Center
    Another great place to get to know the people of Dubai is Caramel in the International financial center. Here there are few tourists and most of the crowd are expats who work nearby. There are also quite a few Emirates who come here for dinner and a night out. We saw a table of ladies in abayas, an Emirati husband and wife out for the night and an Emirati couple out on a date mingling with people from Uk, Australia, the states, Philippines, Shri Lanka and India. It’s a great feel and a contrast to all the tourist packed places you have been and the food is great! After hours it’s also a good nightlife spot.

    What we didn’t get to
    Next time I would like to muster the strength for nightlife which is supposed to be great in Dubai. The djs we heard at lounges were awesome and I love the middle eastern sounds mixed in with more familiar beats. One place recommended to us was circue du suoir.

    I would love to smoke a shisha. Like in Russia, many restaurants have shisha experts on staff and the smells wafting over to us were fantastic.

    Also I would like to and suggest anyone who goes to sample middle eastern food. There are many French and Italian and American restaurants that cater to the expat crowd to its easy to ignore the fact that you are in the Middle East but Dubai is a great place to sample this cuisine.

    Finally, I would like to do an Airplane or helicopter flight over Dubai and Abu Dhabi. It’s a city build on a large scale sandwiched between the desert and the water and it needs to be seen from above. These flyovers are pricey so plan in advance.

    ABU DHABI
    Abu Dhabi, the capital of the emirates and Dubai’s close neighbor makes for a great day trip. There are public busses that can take you there for a reasonable price (men and women sit separate on public busses fyi) or you can pay for a private transfer. Anything and everything in this part of the world has a regular and a luxe option :)

    You can spend the early part of the day on Yas Island: at the Yas water park (better than the ones in Dubai by all accounts) or Ferrari world. I didn’t get a chance to visit since we fell in love with the mosque (see below) but my taller half was there a few years back for the formula 1 and says its worth the trip.

    Tea at Emirates Palace is lovely way to take a break from sightseeing. They serve the Same tea as the one Chinese royal family drink in a great opulent hall with live piano music so u feel pampered.

    If old school tea is not your style, the sleek Ethihad towers next door are a good place for lunch, dinner or a drink at the observation deck.

    A visit to Sheikh Zayed Mosque is a must. I would come in the early or the late part of the day to avoid the high noon sun and ideally at sunset for the most beautiful views of this strikingly beautiful place. There are no words to describe it but google images will give you an idea.

    Keep in mind that the mosque closes for the 5 daily prayers so look up the times online and keep them in mind.
    Loose clothing that cover down to wrists and ankles and a headscarf are required for women and no shorts for men. If you forget, don’t fret: you can borrow an abaya or a kaftan for free and feel like a real Emirati for an hour :)
    The mosque was built for all to visit and see and the amount of design and work that went into it is stupendous. There are free tours a few times a day so check the times before you start.

    The Island
    Saadiyat Island is a great place to take a break around noon or for the stop before you head back. The Louvre Abu Dhabi museum is building its own collection and select parts are now on display on the Island. They are curated in a very original way. In a few years there will likely be buildings sprouting up and a larger collection to see.

    The DESERT
    If you come to the UAE you have to visit the desert! There are dozens of companies offering desert excursions and you should do some research to see what best suits your fancy. We wanted to ride around on dune buggies so we booked with Dream Explorer who took us on an awesome tour around the beautiful white-red dunes.

    Two things I would love to do in the desert next time are 1. sunrise air balloon flight over the desert and 2. Stargazing tour. There are currently two major companies that do air balloon flights but more are likely to crop up as both of these were booked up.

    As per the stargazing, Dubai astronomy site is a good resource and there are a few companies that so night safaris and overnight camps in the desert. Links to both below.

    http://www.dubaiastronomy.com/
    http://www.getyourguide.com/dubai-l173/heritage-night-safari-stargazing-t32135/

    The Creek and the Souks
    If you’ve ever spent time in Asia or the Middle East you will find the famous Gold and Spice souks underwhelming. There are shiny things at the Gold souk and nice smelling spices and wood at the Spice souk but much of the old character is gone and most of it is now just Grand Plastic and Crap Souk so if you’re short on time I would skip it.

    Global Village and expos
    A much better way to spend that time is to pay a visit to dubai village which has pavilions for various countries, many of them from the middle easy, where you can buy souvenirs and curiosities and learn more about the region at the same time. It’s only open during high season so check the opening and closing dates.

    Also once you set a time for your trip, do some research on what expos are going on while you’re there. Dubai hotels are huge and numerous and there is always some kind of convention on and some are very interesting.

    Longer Trip
    There is much to see in the other emirates, in Qatar and nearby neighbor Oman if you have more time in the region.