RSS Feed

May, 2013

  1. Austin

    May 25, 2013 by Ford

    In Austin, 6th street is the epicenter of party. It’s grimy and loud and obnoxious, teeming with college students and weekend tourists. The music is live and the drinks are cheap
    Shakespeare and Blind Pig have live music alternating with DJs playing pop songs (from the last three decades) and both have large outdoor patios for dancing late into the warm Austin night. Though not too late, most places close down at 2am which is a great time to hit up the food trucks that line 6th street. The German sausage spot on the way back to our hotel was our fave.

    In the midst of all the 6th street madness is a very NYC style speakeasy called Midnight cowboy. There is no sign on the door and best to have reservations if you are going on a popular night. The drinks are creative and the atmosphere more intimate. Great place to unwind.

    Rainey St is fantastic for a more laid back evening outing. Many of the houses on Rainey Street have been converted to bars and the huge backyards to lovely beer gardens. Many offer live music and dancing and some have food trucks inside the beer gardens serving tacos, ribs and fried chicken.
    My fave spot on Rainey St. was Blackheart. They had an amazing live band and a group of people from a local Lindy hop class were practicing their moves. The company is called 4 on the floor and its run by Matt jones if u want to take some dance classes while in Austin.

    As far as shopping, SoCo (South Congress) is the spot. My personal face there was the Kendra Scott store. She doesn’t have outlets on the east coast so what you get there will look unique when you come back home.

    For the foodies, Barley Swine is heavenly. It’s a tiny chef collaboration spot. Amazing flavored well worth the wait. For BBQ, those willing to stand in line should head to Franklin’s. For sushi and Asian fusion Uchi is the winner. Get there early for happy hour discounts.

    For the outdoorsy, Barton springs is a good place to hang out. There are many good hiking, walking and running trails around so if this is something you like, Austin will make you happy.


  2. Dubai & Abu Dhabi

    May 23, 2013 by Ford

    The UAE is a lovely and unique place to spend a few days. I was not at first excited about Dubai since I expected it to be an artificial play land like Vegas and came primarily to visit a friend but once there I changed my mind entirely.
    Dubai is the only place in the world which is new and shiny on such a spectacular scale and everyone should experience it for themselves.

    Below is the total brain dump of all we would recommend you do and see when you come to visit. Will try to add some pics once we sort through them.

    The beach
    When in Dubai you should spend at least one a day on the beach. You can get a room at one of the many gulf-side resorts but they will be pricey. The great thing about Dubai is that almost every hotel lets you spend time on their loungers/by their beach/pool for a fee and this way you can sample multiple beaches and see many hotels without paying extra on days you don’t use the facilities.

    The beach club place I loved the most was Nassimi Beach near the Atlantis hotel on the Palm. It has a lovely all white Ibiza feel, the food is fantastic and the DJ was great. I have also heard good things about Riva beach club. Do some research on the matter to find the latest and greatest when you go.

    This leads me to one thing I noted: there are plenty of affordable hotel options in Dubai so you shouldn’t think of it as $1000/night place (though there are plenty of those). They won’t be beachside, or with spectacular views but since you will spend little time there and since you have to pay to get in most place, it won’t really matter. Don’t fret too much time about location because you have to take a car everywhere in Dubai anyway and since most places are new, whatever you get will likely be nice and spacious.

    On the subject of budget options,
    Jumeirah 1 beach is free, clean and pretty and has towels, loungers and umbrellas for rent at reasonable prices. We got there late towards the evening but I suspect that during the day there are plenty of food vendors around as well. It’s a great way to spend a beach day on the cheap.

    http://m.departures-international.com/nc/sections/post/top-five-dubai-beach-bars.html

    Burj Khalifa
    I absolutely fell in love with this beautiful elegant enormous building, also known as the Burj Dubai. You can’t just stroll in to check it out though. To get inside you need to either have a booking to get to the observation deck or have reservations at the Armani hotel or one of the restaurants. Or, of course be a resident but that’s a little harder:) we decided that since we’re paying goos money we might as well get fed and booked afternoon tea and the At.mosphere restaurant on the 122nd floor. The food was ok and the views spectacular. If you make the same choice, ask for a table by the glass and with a view of the gulf where you can see “The World.”
    You can and should also admire the Burj Dubai from afar. There is a beautiful fountain show every night and you can enjoy a great view of it and the magnificent tower from Zeta restaurant across the pond.

    Burj Arab
    Much as with the other Burj. you cant just walk into the sail. Go for Afternoon tea or lunch or see if from afar from the 360 bar that’s on the water.

    Night life
    Other great seaside spots to wind down are Jetty Lounge at the one and only royal mirage and Bliss lounge at Sheraton Jumeirah.

    The Mall
    You can easily spend a whole day the the Dubai mall. Other than every conceivable western chain clothing and shoe store (including a giant Bloomingdales) there are also dozens of restaurants, an ice skating rink, a huge aquarium (that you can dive in!) which at the time of our visit was home to over 80 sharks, a movie theater, sega republic indoor theme park and an Arabian indoor souk. The mall is huge and it’s easy to get lost so take your time, wander and enjoy.

    The Marina
    The marina is the large expat neighborhood with beautiful modern towers. Check out the Walk at JBR which has a Miami vibe. Great place for people watching and the insane diversity that is Dubai.

    Caramel and Financial Center
    Another great place to get to know the people of Dubai is Caramel in the International financial center. Here there are few tourists and most of the crowd are expats who work nearby. There are also quite a few Emirates who come here for dinner and a night out. We saw a table of ladies in abayas, an Emirati husband and wife out for the night and an Emirati couple out on a date mingling with people from Uk, Australia, the states, Philippines, Shri Lanka and India. It’s a great feel and a contrast to all the tourist packed places you have been and the food is great! After hours it’s also a good nightlife spot.

    What we didn’t get to
    Next time I would like to muster the strength for nightlife which is supposed to be great in Dubai. The djs we heard at lounges were awesome and I love the middle eastern sounds mixed in with more familiar beats. One place recommended to us was circue du suoir.

    I would love to smoke a shisha. Like in Russia, many restaurants have shisha experts on staff and the smells wafting over to us were fantastic.

    Also I would like to and suggest anyone who goes to sample middle eastern food. There are many French and Italian and American restaurants that cater to the expat crowd to its easy to ignore the fact that you are in the Middle East but Dubai is a great place to sample this cuisine.

    Finally, I would like to do an Airplane or helicopter flight over Dubai and Abu Dhabi. It’s a city build on a large scale sandwiched between the desert and the water and it needs to be seen from above. These flyovers are pricey so plan in advance.

    ABU DHABI
    Abu Dhabi, the capital of the emirates and Dubai’s close neighbor makes for a great day trip. There are public busses that can take you there for a reasonable price (men and women sit separate on public busses fyi) or you can pay for a private transfer. Anything and everything in this part of the world has a regular and a luxe option :)

    You can spend the early part of the day on Yas Island: at the Yas water park (better than the ones in Dubai by all accounts) or Ferrari world. I didn’t get a chance to visit since we fell in love with the mosque (see below) but my taller half was there a few years back for the formula 1 and says its worth the trip.

    Tea at Emirates Palace is lovely way to take a break from sightseeing. They serve the Same tea as the one Chinese royal family drink in a great opulent hall with live piano music so u feel pampered.

    If old school tea is not your style, the sleek Ethihad towers next door are a good place for lunch, dinner or a drink at the observation deck.

    A visit to Sheikh Zayed Mosque is a must. I would come in the early or the late part of the day to avoid the high noon sun and ideally at sunset for the most beautiful views of this strikingly beautiful place. There are no words to describe it but google images will give you an idea.

    Keep in mind that the mosque closes for the 5 daily prayers so look up the times online and keep them in mind.
    Loose clothing that cover down to wrists and ankles and a headscarf are required for women and no shorts for men. If you forget, don’t fret: you can borrow an abaya or a kaftan for free and feel like a real Emirati for an hour :)
    The mosque was built for all to visit and see and the amount of design and work that went into it is stupendous. There are free tours a few times a day so check the times before you start.

    The Island
    Saadiyat Island is a great place to take a break around noon or for the stop before you head back. The Louvre Abu Dhabi museum is building its own collection and select parts are now on display on the Island. They are curated in a very original way. In a few years there will likely be buildings sprouting up and a larger collection to see.

    The DESERT
    If you come to the UAE you have to visit the desert! There are dozens of companies offering desert excursions and you should do some research to see what best suits your fancy. We wanted to ride around on dune buggies so we booked with Dream Explorer who took us on an awesome tour around the beautiful white-red dunes.

    Two things I would love to do in the desert next time are 1. sunrise air balloon flight over the desert and 2. Stargazing tour. There are currently two major companies that do air balloon flights but more are likely to crop up as both of these were booked up.

    As per the stargazing, Dubai astronomy site is a good resource and there are a few companies that so night safaris and overnight camps in the desert. Links to both below.

    http://www.dubaiastronomy.com/
    http://www.getyourguide.com/dubai-l173/heritage-night-safari-stargazing-t32135/

    The Creek and the Souks
    If you’ve ever spent time in Asia or the Middle East you will find the famous Gold and Spice souks underwhelming. There are shiny things at the Gold souk and nice smelling spices and wood at the Spice souk but much of the old character is gone and most of it is now just Grand Plastic and Crap Souk so if you’re short on time I would skip it.

    Global Village and expos
    A much better way to spend that time is to pay a visit to dubai village which has pavilions for various countries, many of them from the middle easy, where you can buy souvenirs and curiosities and learn more about the region at the same time. It’s only open during high season so check the opening and closing dates.

    Also once you set a time for your trip, do some research on what expos are going on while you’re there. Dubai hotels are huge and numerous and there is always some kind of convention on and some are very interesting.

    Longer Trip
    There is much to see in the other emirates, in Qatar and nearby neighbor Oman if you have more time in the region.


  3. 360 Degrees at the Jumeirah Beach Resort, Dubai

    May 18, 2013 by Arthur

    Great night time views of the Burj al Arab right at your side and the Dubai skyline from the Jumeirah Grand Mosque to the Burj Kalifa. The bar sports a dance floor and decent decor and music. It’s located on a circular extension out on the water at the end of a long walkway encircling the Jumeirah Beach Marina.


  4. Zeta at the Address Downtown, Dubai

    May 18, 2013 by Arthur

    The Zeta restaurant at The Address Downtown has decent food, which is a mix of Japanese and random fusion, a nice decor and if you sit on the patio, great views of the amazing fountain display that takes place every half hour at the base of the esthetically magnificent and architecturally impressive Burj Khalifa. It blows the Bellagio fountains out of the water (corny pun intended.)

    I’d recommend grabbing an evening drink, snack or even dinner here.


  5. Nasimi Beach, The Palm, Dubai

    May 18, 2013 by Arthur

    Nasimi Beach had great view of parts of the Dubai skyline, a good vibe, good music, great food, shisha and a white beach club decor. The beach has beds, loungers, couches and tables. We really enjoyed for a dip, a drink, a snack and even a little dancing.

    20130518-193105.jpg


  6. Club Mina Beach at the Le Meridian, Dubai

    May 18, 2013 by Arthur

    The Club Mina Beach Club at Le Meridian gets a resounding two thumbs down. It’s probably an ok place for families with kids, as we saw a lot of those there, but that doesn’t excuse the poor service and the unimpressive beach, food, decor and view.

    The entry cost is around $100 per person for that money you have to walk around the outside of the hotel and through and back entrance behind the parking lot to access the beach, because got forbid you use the hotels main entrance and mix with the exclusive clientele of the Westin and Le Meridian brands. For that money you get a lounger and two towels if you’re willing to wait 10 min for the towel guy to show up. Then you might get a fine server like Binod who is under the strict impression that smiling to a paying customer would literally kill him, but giving customers attitude, rushing them when taking an order and repeatedly moving a tray with the receipts and credit card machine to your lounger despite your best efforts to move it to a nearby lounger so you can rest comfortably while he takes the 15 minutes to prepare the receipts and run off midway on a random errand, is totally ok.

    There was more to raise my ire but I think you get the idea.


  7. Butterfly Lodge, Pokhara

    May 14, 2013 by Arthur

    The Butterfly Lodge in Pokhara is a great option. Rooms run the gamut from shared bathroom in the old building to private bathroom and balcony with a lake view in the new building range from $6 to $60. It has a garden with swings, tables and loungers. It’s a great place to rest and relax. The lodge is a family run establishment and they are extremely friendly and helpful and have a great sense of quality service. Showers have good water pressure and temperature.

    We’d highly recommend the place and came back here twice.

    Our only beef was with the Spa. It seems they rent out some space in a small building on their property to semi-associated spa. The spa sucks. The towels and sheets are dirty to the point of disgusting and the masseuses don’t redeem it one bit. They are poorly trained both in the physical aspects of the art of massage and the metaphysical aspects such as service. To add insult to injury its extremely overpriced. The higher price probably deceived us into thinking it would be a “luxury” experience. It was not. The lodge needs to find a new spa operator or at the very least disassociate themselves by recommending another spa off the premises.


  8. Air India and Delhi Airport

    May 14, 2013 by Arthur

    Air India flights are often disgusting. As in their cleaning crew, if they have one, neglected to show up for work. The passengers often have no sense of personal space and the flight attendants no sense of service. But hey it’s often half the price of the competition. So if you’re a world traveler looking to save a buck and can hold down the squeamishness. Go for it. (As I write this, the gentleman sitting next to me just decided to share his satisfaction with the inflight meal by regurgitating it to me in gaseous form right from his mouth with substantial force and volume.) If you have standards and are not in the mood for “budget travel” spring for another carrier.

    Also, how hard is it to keep the light on in cabin? I’m not talking “Ladies and gentlemen we’ll be dimming our lights for take off and landing” or “to allow passengers to get a good nights rest.” I’m talking about randomly shutting off all of the cabin lights in one fell swoop a dozen times over the course of a flight for durations varying from 10 seconds to 15 minutes. I fly a lot. I can’t say I’m scared of flying but seriously intermittently shutting off power to a flying tin can 30,000 feet in the air, like its a shack on the outskirts of a third world town with a faulty electrical grid, is not very reassuring. Oh and maybe you could train your stewardesses not to slam down the platter of mixed goo containers you call the in-flight meal on my kindle. And here’s another brain busting idea. It’s ok to turn on the air conditioning before the plane hits 30,000 feet even on short hall flight, especially if its 90 degrees outside (and 100 inside for that matter.) In the interest of honesty I must counter-disclaim though that the goo marked as “Non-Veg Main” is generally surprisingly edible. I can’t say the same for the one marked “Dessert.”

    Note that in my experience Air India flights to/from the United States seem to be a little better as they are often co-shares and at least they have some shame. When you fly inside Asia, its a free for all.

    As far as transfer hubs go, Delhi is actually pretty good. The airport is new and well laid out. The Eaton Hotel right in airport has decent clean rooms and is a great option when your transfer requires an overnight stay and you don’t want to waste time and money on obtaining a transit visa and leaving the airport. The airport even sports sleeping pods for the more budget conscious. The Nature Spa at the Ishana outlet is also excellent and reasonably priced for the level of quality. Go for the 30 minute foot massage or add on the 60 minute full body massage which incorporates yoga stretches if you have the time. The treatment quality is far superior to what you’ll find at most airport spas and the decor complete with floor to ceiling views out onto the tarmac is great.


  9. Nepal Guides and Porters

    May 14, 2013 by Arthur

    The Annapurna Circuit is a pretty well traveled trekking route and though it takes you to some pretty remote places that may require evacuation by donkey and helicopter if shit goes bad and sport the sort of accommodations and culinary options that will have you wishing for a tuna steak and some wet wipes by the second week, its pretty touristy and easy enough to travel without a guide. That being said, I’d highly recommend getting one. It’s worth the money.

    We started out simply looking for a porter to carry one of our packs mostly because Ford was being a little bitch after breaking an ankle yachting and tearing up some knee ligaments skiing (“man up, you got another leg” I said, but then she briskly reminded me that she was actually a girl and “Ford” was just a pseudonym she got dibs on by offering me sexual favors and promptly proceeded to shove said other leg… well you get the picture) oh and I was being lazy.

    So we got to Pokhara, went to every single sporting goods store on the strip along Lake Side, realized they all sold the same bootleg shit gear made in China and that neither the brand or the volume size marked on the outside of a pack had anything remotely to do with reality or physics based on Euclidean geometry as we know it and bought the biggest lack we could find for $40. We then proceeded to fill it to the brim with both of our stuff. Somehow at the end of the procedure I was still carrying my own 75 liter pack weighing in at 30 lbs and we ended up leaving Ford’s full 65 liter pack and my day pack with out hotel in Pokhara for storage. But I digress.

    So following some recommendations or recommendations we hired a porter to carry our newly purchased pack. Some of the established agencies will offer you guides who generally refuse to carry a load but speak english and know the route for about $25 a day and porters who barely speak English and barely know where they are going for about $15. We got incredibly lucky with a Porter/Guide who ended up costing us $17 a day. Not only did he carry our enormous pack with gusto, often out running us with our comparatively measly loads an resting under a shady tree along the way waiting for us to catch up but he proved to be an experienced guide, having been in the game for over 13 years and gone over the Throng La pass close to 100 times. He was extremely knowledgeable about the routes (something vital when you realize that no single accurate map or guidebook exists and the trail options change constantly due to road construction, landslides and varying degrees of trail maintenance or lack thereof), the flora, fauna and farming methods employed, the various lodges and their quality of lodging and cuisine. He was superbly friendly and helpful, knowing when to hangout with us and when to hang back and give us some space, he served as a personal waiter taking our orders and bringing us food wherever we we went and on several occasions even served as our personal chef. He was great.

    Hell he even picked a mean merijuana harvest along the way (which is harder than it sounds given that most of the plants hadn’t bloomed yet) and slaughtered a chicken at one of the guest houses we stayed at.

    If you’re looking for a good reliable guide, porter or both in Nepal, we’d be happy to recommend ours. Just email me at arthur@havetowelwilltravel.com.

    (I’d like to add a side not here and assuage my Jewish guilt through Catholic confession and say though I experienced pangs of guilt every time I loaded up our porter/guides pack. That being said it was a featherweight compared to what we saw porters carrying on the trail. What some of the more commercial trekking outfits due to the porters on the large org sized treks just seems inhumane. One porter often ends up carrying the equivalent of two large packs and then some roped together and attached to a band on their forehead which is the locals preferred method of load carrying.)

    Guides like ours generally only work a few treks a year and earn somewhere between $1,000 and $2,000 a year. Though that’s more than the average Nepali earns in a year, it still makes for a very hard life. We loved our guide and tipped him 60%. If your guide or porter works hard to do his job and make you happy, do your best to reward them accordingly. Give what you can just don’t forget to put things in prospective. An extra $10 might not make it or break it for you but it might make a huge difference for your guide or porter. Oh and please don’t forget to treat your guide/porter with dignity and respect.

    Here’s another tip. Chances are you probably haven’t done much laundry by hand in freezing cold water while squatting over a hose in your day. The good news is, your guide will have plenty of free time while you lick your wounds from the days hike. Try to agree ahead of time with your porter/guide that he will be doing your laundry. Just make sure you also agree on how often and how. (Ex. No rubbing on stone, rubbing by hand only, run with soap, rub stains and high stain areas, rinse 4 times, rinse each peace individually under running water, hang to dry and clip.) Keep in mind that unless you discuss things ahead of time he might not consider how often you want clean clothes “reasonable” and you may not quite consider what he calls “clean” reasonable either.

    Always interview your guide or porter before you agree to hire them. Don’t feel bad saying you’ll get back to them after the interview rather than making a rush decision. You’ll be spending several weeks with this person. You want to make sure you’re comfortable.

    Here are some questions to ask your guide/porter or agency (and preferable answers):
    Does the guide have appropriate clothes and foot ware for the trek?(Keep in mind that it gets quite cold and there may be snow on the ground. That being said, your guide will likely put your $500 Goretex boots to shame by insisting on running up the path in a $12 pair of sneakers. Do make sure they are experienced enough to know that it gets quite cold at elevation and they have enough warm clothes.)
    [if working with an agency] Does the agency provide insurance for the guide in case of injury, sickness or death during the trek?
    How many times has the guide done this trek before? (Make sure to ask about any and all optional side treks you might want to do, even if you’re not yet sure if you’re going to do them.)
    Will the guide be drinking during the trek? (We’ve heard of some guides who get excessively drunk on the trek. We let out guy drink and smoke in moderation when we were already on the trek but its best that you determine beforehand that the general policy is no drinking.)
    Who will choose the guest houses where you spend the night? (You want the guide to make recommendations. In our experience they were usually good. But you want to make sure that its clear upfront that you get final say.)
    Who will be responsible for the guide’s/porter’s food and accommodations? (Its preferable that the food and accommodations be included in the price you arrange and be the guide’s/porter’s own responsibility. From what we saw the guides and porters generally get to stay and eat for free or at substantial discount wherever you stay and eat.)


  10. Oh Shit

    May 14, 2013 by Arthur

    The below post was meant to go out a couple of days back, but luckily we’ve found most of our trek to be completely devoid of internet access. Since then we’ve seen more cool shit, gone over the snow covered 5,500 meter high Thorung La pass, fantasized about all the restaurants we’ll eat at upon our return that don’t serve rice with lentils, thoroughly debated how many showers would be too many to have per day once we have unfettered access to hot water that doesn’t come from a rusty bucket (thus far there is certain consensus that 4 a day is perfectly acceptable for at least the first week) and learned that at above 3,000 meters if you only need to wear 5 layers of clothing indoors to stay warm, that means its “summer” and there is no need to turn the heat on in the dinning hall.

    And now the post you’ve all been waiting for:

    For those of you still on the fence about coming to Nepal, I’d like to inform you that the place literally has fields of merijuana. They belong to no one and simply grow by the roadside like, well a bunch of weeds.

    In all seriousness, Nepal is a beautiful and fascinating country and we’d highly advise everyone to come to Nepal and see all the cool shit they have here. They have cow shit, water-buffalo shit, goat shit, donkey shit, horse shit, sheep shit, cheap shit (mostly manufactured in China and labeled as expensive American and European brand outdoors gear) and yak shit which once you get to a certain altitude you’ll realize is the only fuel source available for heat as no living organisms in its right mind, trees included, are willing to put up with the freezing cold, blistering wind and lack of, that highly taken-for-granted commodity, oxygen. On the topic of shit, I can report that Ford has managed to succumb to 2 of the 4 possible types of diarrhea. Worry not though, we are heading into a region know for its Giardia, a single cell organism highly prized by nature for its ability to relive you of your constipation and your overall water content, so we are hoping that we can get at least 3 out of 4 if not the full quad-fecta by the end of the trip. On that note, I intend to seriously study the market potential of Nepali water as a rat poison and as a weight-loss dietary supplement upon my return to the states.

    Though I’ll be happy to share my full 250 item packing list complete with post-trip updates on my return, I’d like to make one specific recommendation. Bring a serious SLR camera and have it mounted at all times to the outside of your pack. Sure its an extra thousand dollars if you don’t already have one and a couple of extra pounds to carry around, but I assure it’ll all be worth it when you won’t look like a complete pussy when you stop every 15 seconds to pantingly catch your breath, under the guise of taking that next National Geographic worthy photo, as you ascent past 3,000 meters. The good news is there are plenty of incredible vistas at every turn in Nepal so no one will suspect a thing. Try to make sure you don’t let more then a minute or two pass between photos lest you pass out from oxygen deprivation. Oh and whatever lens you were going to bring, bring a wider one. The mountains are really really really big. No. Really.

    In summary trekking in Nepal is beautiful albeit painful, smelly and cold. Oh and I’d kill for a steak or even a piece of fish, let alone another pack of wet-wipes to “shower” with.